Every Day is Earth Day on the Farm: Hand Grenades and Silent Fields

Matt and I worked on a number of farms over the years, both conventional and organic, but a farm I worked at for half a summer early in my career both has had the greatest lasting impact to me about the importance of working with nature as you farm, and been on my mind a lot this winter thanks to world events.

In 2000, I worked from July through September on a small community’s farm 300 kilometers southwest of Moscow in their potato and vegetable fields, teaching English to kids there, and practicing Russian. At the time, rural lands were in the process of being pulled out of collective farms and semi-privatized. Anyone who had worked on the collectives now could lease a four-acre parcel to do their own thing, and the group I lived with had started a pretty amazing community there. The big catch was that the collective farm had been something like 10,000 hectares (30 square miles!), there were limited traversable roads, and everyone lived in these centralized towns without many private vehicles.

I was in charge of exercising the community’s horse while it’s owner was away, and I would ride for hours through twilight (it didn’t get dark until 11 pm!) across these empty, birch-lined roads and rolling fields. It had an eerie melancholy that took me over a week to realize was due to its dead silence. No birds for the most part, no humming insects (okay, the lack of mosquitoes was pretty nice), just silent fields and whatever sound the wind made across them as they started the process of turning back to what they had been before. Every now and then you would come across a random tethered cow or a small field that was being worked and lush with giant vegetables, or one of the few people still hiking out to use the land they had access to, most often much older women with their five-foot scythe blade at their side, who would rhapsodize about Khrushchev and how things were so much better back then.

Snow buntings (our favorite winter bird and a rare sight) feeding on our winter wheat cover crop.

Snow buntings (our favorite winter bird and a rare sight) feeding on our winter wheat cover crop.

I was always fascinated by the vast scope of the Russian landscape and the turbulence of Russian history and politics, how they seemed like both an opposite and mirror image of our own county, and how they were able to mobilize on such a large scale to create these immense farms and their hidden giant chemical production cities deep in the taiga. What hit me when I lived there was true cost of such grand expansion—the giant apartment blocks starting to crumble at the edges, the deep lonely silence of insect-less fields, and the difficulty of citizens trying to regroup when the future they trained for in their collective farm roles was gone.

Coming back to the US, that summer lingered with me over the years, and I’ve been thinking about Russia a lot recently. We in North America, like our mirror image continent of Asia, have so many amazing natural resources and potential bounty that we can draw from them, but we have to use the land, air, and water well or we risk going hungry. Eastern Russia has some of the most amazing soils in the world, and while the potato harvest we brought in that year wasn’t considered great for them, it was the best yield on potatoes I’ve ever seen in my life.

Yet even surrounded by such a bounty of beautiful fields and rich soils, those months are the only time I’ve ever gone to bed clawingly hungry every night (I lost over 10 pounds a month there). We largely ate some form of buckwheat three times a day, topped with a thin sauce of vegetables or watered down milk. Once a week there was a half a herring in the dish, and for a special occasion, a piece of pork fat. After potato harvest began, it was the same, but substitute potatoes for the buckwheat. The hunger seemed to be a result of the breakdown of an immense political, economic, and cultural system that hadn’t yet regrouped into something new. (I’m pretty sure it’s a lot better there now.) Sometimes I wonder if mirror situations here in the US are what create the food deserts in some of our cities and rural areas where there might be plenty of food, but not necessarily affordable or healthy options.

Sunset over a boisterous wetland.

Sunset over a boisterous wetland.

I also gained an appreciation that to steward our earth well, we need to have specialists, but there is also a great benefit in having generalists thinking in a general, bigger picture matter on things. People from the collective farm in Russia had learned deeply about the one aspect of the farm operation they did, be it feeding cows or driving tractors or milking, but it was such detailed specialization that outside of the framework of the collective, no one (save those older women hiking the five miles out to their fields each day) seemed to have the generalist big picture knowledge that most small or family farmers here in the States rely on. Coming back to the US, I began work on a small family farm that had begun as a homestead, and their capacity to build, grow, or create literally almost anything was pretty impressive. From a couple decades out, we strive on our farm to find a balance between generalization and big picture farm planning with specializing in vegetable production, and staying up to date with the newest production systems and research.

There’s both a fragility and a resiliency in our natural systems, and we believe that we can work over time to fix most challenges that face us. In Russia, I was initially struck by the vast number of round potholes throughout the woods and along the roads. I thought it was some sort of glaciation phenomenon as it would be if it was here in the northern US, until one day my host mother told me that I should stay on the roads and fields as there were lots of ghosts around from the 100,000 people that had died in WWII in the region. That town was incredibly hard hit by bombs and war and every one of those potholes was an impact crater. Yet half a century later, it was heavily wooded and cultivated, with very few visible signs of the past devastation beyond the cratering. [On a tangent, while working on the potato combine where 8 of us rode on top, picking out rocks, rodents, and funky potatoes as they passed by, I found an odd little cylinder that looked like an old one-pint paint can. My neighbor, shouting over the tractor noise, grabbed it from me, shouting, “Bad! Bad!” As we were bouncing across the field heading home from lunch, packed all 8 in the farm’s little Lada, I noticed her holding it very carefully cupped in her hands as we went over bumps. It was a live grenade left from the war (we blew it up later), and made me realize how scary it must be for everyone farming or living in areas with active landmines and old bombs!]

Clean rainbow skies and air

Clean rainbow skies and air

There’s no price high enough to put on healthy air and soil and water, so we should do our best to keep them clean. In Russia, what got to me most in the end and stuck with me all these years, was that overwhelming silence. You take so much chatter from nature for granted, that it takes a while to realize that it’s all gone. Here on our farm, sometimes there’s an eerie moment when a hawk passes by or in the pause right before a thunderstorm hits and things go all dead or muffled for just a second, and it always makes you look up. Spring and summer here literally throb with insects and birds and mammals, all shouting at the top of their lungs “I’m so sexy!” and “Stay off my lawn!” to anything in earshot.

One of our biggest successes as farmers here at Hartwood so farm is building our farm’s amazing bio-diversity between the mix of crops, pastures, woods, wetlands, and hedgerows. Each year, new species move back in, some as awesome predators and some as annoying pests, trying our patience and nibbling our crops. We feel that over time, we can balance out the system so that the predator and the pests are in balance, rather than try to eradicate all of them into some dull silence.

We do have more work ahead of us to build a system that doesn’t end in silence. Most of our continuing challenges lie in the nature of vegetable production, which with tight planting schedules and yearlong growing can be harder on the soil than we want it to be, with all the cultivation and weeding. We focus on designing a system that replenishes our soil between crops through resting fields, using cover crops, and adding organic matter. You can see some of this even more in action this year through the very long walk you will take through our gauntlet of obnoxiously loud birds and bugs to get to this year’s fields, which are wedged up against the woods at the very back of the farm. We have finally been able to open up enough fields to let half of our growing area rest and replenish each year under a carpet of recuperative green manures. We’ve also been switching around our equipment to use gentler methods to work the soil, so we can rely less on roto-tilling and more on soil building vertical tillage.

And on a bigger picture, we hope to work with our community and our country’s leaders to protect the great soil, air, and water resources we’ve been blessed with in the US, so that they remain filled with happy and healthy and noisy populations of humans and animals. We are happy to be farming in a community where so many farmers, customers, and community members of all political stripes care about their land and health. On this Earth Day and hopefully many to come, we will be working to build a healthy farm system, where soils can lock in and hold nutrients to grow healthy, delicious plants, and where hopefully silence never falls on our fields (outside the rest of winter’s quiet). And I hope to get back to Russia one day and see all the changes that must have happened over the last 17 years. Nature abhors a vacuum, so I like to imagine the fields have refilled with life and sound of busy animals and insects living along side humans in a mix of wild and cultivated lands.

Happy Earth Day!

The 2017 Farm Roller Coaster Is About to Begin!

This week, with the snow finally melted and the heater suddenly turned on full blast, is the week that always feels like that moment you are about to crest the first peak of a roller coaster. We’ve been clicking-clacking up the slope, getting all prepared for things to be underway, but there’s always that one moment when all that goes through your mind (or mine at least, since I’m a little scared of roller coasters) is “I’m not ready!” But of course, it’s too late by then!

This week is our coaster peak on the farm, where *everything* is about to take off! With just two hot days, the fields greened up, the final supply and equipment orders arrived (and are piling up in our driveway, since it’s still too wet to get a lot of it back into the fields!), the chickens are coming home to roost, the greenhouse officially overflowed with plants, and our first crew member starts Monday!

Like the peak of the roller coaster’s jittery excitement, we know spring is about to take us on a ride! Here’s some of what went on these past few weeks getting ready for it…

We had a truly impressive amount of mud appear last week, complete with multiple boots lost to it. Fortunately, most of it dried out on Monday!

We had a truly impressive amount of mud appear last week, complete with multiple boots lost to it. Fortunately, most of it dried out on Monday!

Sunday’s beautiful sunshine decimated all those nasty snow piles (for now, we never quite trust that the snow is over until we hit the safety of May). We can’t believe that three weeks ago we were out shoveling feet of snow (we had 34" up here!) off the greenhouses.

It got quite foggy when those 34 inches of snow melted!

It got quite foggy when those 34 inches of snow melted!

Right now we are solidly in mud season, which hopefully passes with a few more days of warm weather. In general, we need four consecutive dry days to allow the soil to dry enough for fields to be worked, or six days after the amount of rain we had last week. If the weather cooperates, we might have a chance to start preparing the ground early next week (fingers crossed on that).

Our baby greenhouse—the small one that we heat—is maxed out to its limits with its first round of seedlings! This week, we start moving some of the hardier seedlings (onions, leeks, and scallions) out to the unheated greenhouse out in the field where they will live for the next three weeks before planting time. The onions and leeks are also in need of a haircut—trimming them down helps they grow stockier and sturdier.

Freshly re-potted tomatoes, in three weeks they'll be ready to go into the ground of the high tunnel!

Freshly re-potted tomatoes, in three weeks they'll be ready to go into the ground of the high tunnel!

Speaking of the big greenhouse, we have one last winter market coming up next Saturday, which means one last big harvest in the field high tunnel, then we’ll start flipping over those beds to be ready to plant tomatoes in early May! Stop by to say hi to us Saturday between 10 and 1 at the Legion in Cazenovia, and catch the last of the winter spinach, lettuce, kale, and more!

Last week's spread at the winter market--we have lots more goodies for this week!

Last week's spread at the winter market--we have lots more goodies for this week!

The start of the season was a good kick for us to finalize our field maps, which is the giant puzzle of figuring out where and when every crop goes in. It's an incredibly complicated puzzle, as we want to always have a four year rotation between plant families (so nothing gets planted where it's been for at least that long), plus we have to make sure all the crops planted near each other have the same growing period and irrigation method. It's kind of like an incredibly engrossing jigsaw puzzle of hundreds of plantings that you slowly put together over the course of years.

Finally, we are still on target to start the CSA in early June (in just two months!). We do still have shares available at the farm as well as in Fayetteville, Liverpool, Manlius, and Syracuse, and would love to have you join us! You can sign up online at www.hartwoodfarm.com/csa-sign-up  or email us at info@hartwoodfarm.com with any questions or to talk more.

Have a great *real* first week of spring!

A Day in the Life of a CSA Farm: Getting the Veggies Out - A Look at our Harvest and Delivery Days

As we get ready for the growing season, we thought we’d share some of our summer bustling with a look behind the scenes of what goes into harvesting, packing, and delivering all the goodies in your CSA boxes!

A mid-August large share ready to go!

A mid-August large share ready to go!

Planning the Box

CSA shares actually start a week or two before as we start noticing what crops are ripening, and how near things are to perfection. For a Tuesday box, we start eying those crops that are getting close to prime on a field walk a full week before, but make the final decision of who’s ripe or not on the Friday or Saturday before the harvest (this is also when we try to write our newsletter for the week).

We usually have ten to fifteen potential vegetables that we could put into the shares each week, so we spend some time looking at what you’ve been getting, what’s likely to start coming in soon, how near to ripe the crops are, and how popular they are. We try to mix up the shares with a diverse range of produce, and make sure the most popular veggies get eaten! Planning the boxes ends up in the generation of a harvest list of when and how many of each crop need to get picked.

Comparing our pre-season CSA box list with what's actually ripe for the week... lots of differences in the drought of 2016!

Comparing our pre-season CSA box list with what's actually ripe for the week... lots of differences in the drought of 2016!

Harvesting the Crops

Then the big labor of getting the boxes ready begins! We head out into the field to harvest Monday and Tuesday morning (Thursday and Friday mornings for Friday shares). Some veggies we prefer to pick 24 hours before packing the boxes so they have time to chill thoroughly and dry, which helps them last longer in your fridge. Other crops with short storage time (like basil) we like to harvest at the very last minute before we pack the shares. So for Tuesday deliveries, we spend Monday bringing in things that benefit from longer cold storage, and Tuesday harvesting more tender crops.

Out in the field, we motor around with the farm truck, which is loaded with all the tools, rubber bands, and tote bins we need to get the job done. We strive to get everything out of the sun within minutes of harvest, so as the bins are filled, they are stacked up in the shade and kept cool. As soon as we have a full load (or even before, if it’s particularly hot), we race them back to the wash stand.

Emily getting started on the first tote of 200 hundred kale and chard bunches!

Emily getting started on the first tote of 200 hundred kale and chard bunches!

Washing and Storing the Crops

90% of the veggies go through the washing station to get clean and cooled off. By default, we have to wash at the back side of the garage, since that’s where we have both power for our walk-in coolers and potable drinking water for veggie washing. Someday we dream of having a barn in the field with its own drinking water well so that we can wash the veggies closer to where they are grown, not make our lawn all messy, and keep from draining all the water for our showers (yup, we learned in 2016 that in a severe drought, we sometimes have to choose between washing the vegetables and long showers. We hope you appreciated the shiny clean veggies, and gave us a wide berth!).

Late summer root washing... who's that making such a mess?

Late summer root washing... who's that making such a mess?

Pretty much all leafy greens and sturdy greens like broccoli benefit from “hydro-cooling,” which is when they are dunked in super cold water to get all of the field heat out of them. You might not belief how hot veggies can get in the sun, even by only 9 or 10am on a summer morning, but 30 seconds of agitation through icy water goes a long way to cooling them off. All root crops, which are understandably dirty since they live underground, are hosed down particularly well—this is one of the big labor bottlenecks of our farm, so we are playing around with DIY inventions to see if we can speed this up for 2017.

Fruiting veggies like peppers, tomatoes, cucumbers, and squash, we generally try to avoid washing, only doing a quick hose off, wipe down, or dunking in warm water if necessary. These crops are unique because if they are warm and then soaked in cold water, they can suck some of that water in through their skins, which is icky and something we avoid at all costs.

After washing, all the veggies are neatly stacked in clean totes in the coolers to further chill and dry off. Some veggies like greens go through our spinner, but we let most drip dry to keep the cooler humidity level high (this seems to help them survive for an extra week or two in your refrigerators). This spring we are excited to add a second walk-in cooler in the garage so that we can have one cold cooler and one lukewarm cooler, since about half our crops prefer 50 degrees, while the other half yearn for 38 degrees!

A mixed veggie harvest heading in for the farmers market.

A mixed veggie harvest heading in for the farmers market.

Packing the Box and Deliveries

The morning of share deliveries, we are still out harvesting the more tender crops, but also start packing the bags and quarts that might appear in your share. Greens are spun if needed and weighed into bags, potatoes and more measured into quarts, and odd shaped things like eggplants sorted by size.

Next is packing the boxes themselves, which is my favorite part of the process, since it’s super pretty and feeds into my OCD needs! We get a long assembly line going from the cooler to the truck, sliding the boxes along with each person carefully placing their items in. At the end, they get loaded Tetris-like into the truck.

Shares awaiting closing and loading!

Shares awaiting closing and loading!

Once we’ve pulled the vegetables out of the coolers and packed the boxes, we are on a super tight timeline in a race against the summer heat since we don’t have a refrigerated delivery vehicle (another dream future investment). We try to cut it as close as possible, so the veggies have maximum time to chill, but so that we aren’t running late for drop offs. Matt has his special way of loading the truck, and them we speed-pack any extra veggies into the swap basket cooler, toss in the eggs (okay, we don’t *actually* toss eggs in), and chase him out of the driveway.

Then the veggies are ready for you at the distribution sites! We use the annoying-to-open corrugated wax boxes because they help retain coolness, especially when densely stacked. We are also lucky to have cool, shady sites (thanks, site hosts!), but on hot days, we definitely recommend trying to arrive earlier rather than later, since even the best chilled vegetables start to warm up by being outside long enough in August.

We hope you enjoy your share this summer (and yes, we do still have a few shares available!), and please let us know if you have any questions about your veggies!

Loading up at one of the last distributions of the season!

Loading up at one of the last distributions of the season!

Hartwood Farm's Suggestions for Successful Seed Starting:

Happy Spring! ‘Tis the season to start thinking about seed starting for your farm or garden!

Are you thinking about starting a garden? Looking for plants to grow around your house and your yard? This week our blog is all about the keys of growing the healthy, hardy transplants farms and gardens need in places with extra interesting weather like upstate NY. Seed starting is my FAVORITE part of farming, and while we don’t have the greenhouse space to sell our plants to you all directly, we wanted to share how we do it and to encourage you to start some vegetables and flowers of your own!

Transplanting eggplant in late May on our (new to us) Waterwheel transplanter... fun!

Transplanting eggplant in late May on our (new to us) Waterwheel transplanter... fun!

First off: why start seeds or use transplants when you can just plant seeds straight into the ground?

We transplant virtually every vegetable than can handle it (there are a few crops that don’t like their roots disturbed, like beans, carrots, radishes, turnips, etc, that we direct seed). Why so much transplanting? For a lot of reasons...

First, when you are up at elevation in the northeast, the growing season can be shorter than ideal. In general, when you start seeds inside your house or in the greenhouse, you can cut off ten to fourteen days of their ripening time. A crop like a 120-day winter squash might only need 106 to 110 days to mature if you transplant it, for example. That might not seem like a big difference, but in a summer with an end of May frost and a mid-September frost, those extra ten days can make the difference between getting squash fruit or not!

Second, we are super pinched for space and time in the field (as you likely are too, whether growing for yourself or for market), so it helps us be more efficient if all of the plants in a bed are at the exact perfect spacing and exact same size. When we direct seed, sometimes sections won’t germinate well (we have rough soil, so our germination isn’t perfect in the field), critters might sample things right away, or germination will be too good and the spacing will be too tight. When we transplant crops, we get better germination in the perfect conditions of the greenhouse, and then can make sure everything is perfectly spaced in the field.

Finally, our fields and soils are still a work in progress, and we definitely have a way to go on our quest to control weeds, pests, and diseases in the soil. When we use big, healthy, transplanted crops, they start off weeks ahead of the weeds, and are ideally healthy enough to fight off most disease and pests. Transplanting essentially saves us time on the weeding front during our busiest months of May and June, by having us spend more time in the greenhouse during the quieter months of March and April.

A freshly scrubbed and sanitized greenhouse to start off the season!

A freshly scrubbed and sanitized greenhouse to start off the season!

Keep it clean!

We focus on cleaning everything that will come near a baby seedling super well before starting for the season. Since we are Certified Naturally Grown, and have made the decision to only use products that are approved for use in organic production systems, it means we don’t have any big (chemical) guns to use on our crops when pests and disease hit. Because of this, our whole goal is to set up growing systems where our plants are healthy, hardy, and free from any funk or bugs before they go into the ground, so we don’t have to deal with problems later. What we are working to prevent by keeping our seed starting area super clean are diseases or pests that might have come onto the farm in last year’s potting soil, last year’s seed, or blown in on the wind to last year’s plants. If your seed starting containers have been camping out in your yard next to your compost bin since you planted last June, definitely give them a good scrub before you start (even if you aren’t interested in organic growing—it’s always easier to prevent problems than rush around trying to deal with them!).

We start off by scrubbing down the greenhouse (or your seed starting area, if you are inside) and then use an organically approved sanitizing spray (basically a rapidly dissipating diluted hydrogen peroxide) to kill any spores or micro-organisms that may have lived through the winter on last season’s trays. It is possible to skip this step if your plant starts are generally healthy, but with so many hungry CSA members relying on us for veggies each year, we prioritize cleanliness, since better safe than sorry!

Enjoying the break from minuscule seeds with these nice, big sunflower seeds!

Enjoying the break from minuscule seeds with these nice, big sunflower seeds!

Choose high quality, fresh seeds, and if you are saving your own seed, make sure you are storing them correctly.

Seeds are highly perishable and don’t handle poor storage conditions well. If they are too hot or too damp over the year, it can reduce their viability and make them not germinate or grow as well. As a general rule, try to store seeds in conditions where if you add the temperature and the humidity together, it comes out to less than 100. For instance, if you have your seeds in your house at 68 degrees, you want them to be in an area with low relative humidity (like under 32% humidity). If you have your seeds someplace cool (like in your freezer at 20 degrees), it’s okay if the environment has higher humidity.

Also, be aware of a seed’s general viability, or how long it can be stored. There’s a good chart to help tell you how long a seed can last HERE. Try to use seeds that don’t store well up in the year you buy them (for instance, we never keep onion seed over year to year), and if you do want to save seed to use later, do a quick germination test on them before you plant (here’s directions HERE), because it’s super disappointing to plant bum seed and not have anything grow! Lots of seed companies are starting to sell pelleted seed (seed coated in a clay covering), which is great for planting for those of us with machine seeders or carpal tunnel issues. However, pelleting reduces seed viability, so those seeds need to be used up as fast as possible!

Finally, when starting seeds, choose good seed companies that have high quality products. It takes so much time and energy raising the crops, that it’s really not worth skimping on seed cost, relative to all the other costs farming and gardening has! We are also big fans of buying seed that is bred for our harsher northern conditions, and heavily rely on High Mowing Seeds and Johnny’s Selected Seeds. Fruition Seeds, Fedco Seeds, and the Hudson Valley Seed Library also have nice selections for the northeast.

Getting trays ready to fill with our pre-moistened potting soil.

Getting trays ready to fill with our pre-moistened potting soil.

On a related note, use a good quality potting soil.

In our opinion, this is one of the most important parts of seed starting, since it’s the basis of raising a healthy plant. There are two ways to go on potting soil—either use a sterile (usually peat-based) medium, or use a living compost based medium. We generally prefer compost-based potting mixes, since they should have enough fertility that you don’t need to fertilize your plants and they get the baby plants used to having to pull nutrients from the soil. The down side of compost-based mixes are that they aren’t sterile, and if the person making the compost doesn’t do a good job and uses plants in that compost that had some diseases, the disease-causing micro-organisms can transfer to your baby seeds. Compost based mixes also take a lot more skill to water correctly, which can be challenging for new growers (more on that later). Sterile mixes are good because they tend to have lots of water holding capacity with all the peat moss in them, but the only fertility or nutrients they have for your baby plants come through whatever fertilizer is added to them.

Finding a good potting mix can be hard. We actually order ours in bulk from the Hudson Valley or Vermont, and it’s one of the biggest costs of our farm operation in spring. Some folks make their own (there's a mix of recipes HERE), and we’ve done it in the past with some success, but find that the commercial mixes are so much better than anything we make, so we have settled on letting the pros do it for us. Big box stores often just have super-chemically mixes (look on the labels to see if they have Miracle Gro in them), but you should have luck finding small bags of good quality potting mixes at local nurseries, greenhouses, or hydroponics retailers.

Heat and moisture trapping germination domes taken off for the day (so we don't cook the plants). Make sure you don't stack the domes in a pile in the sun or they will fuse together!

Heat and moisture trapping germination domes taken off for the day (so we don't cook the plants). Make sure you don't stack the domes in a pile in the sun or they will fuse together!

Water!

Water management of seedlings is one of the most critical things to their growth, and also one of the hardest tasks to do correctly. Seeds need adequate moisture to germinate well, but if they are too wet, it can lead to tons of disease, including damping off, which is the bane of many a seed starter.

We mix water in with our potting soil so that when we start the seeds, the soil is already quite wet, so we don’t need to water for a few days. Then, we focus on keeping the top of the soil moist (germination domes or covering with saran wrap can help with this), but not really watering the whole tray deeply, because too much water at this stage can leach out the nutrients in the soil that those babies are going to need later. We generally use a mister at this stage, checking and re-misting several times a day.

Once the seeds start to germinate and grow, you want to water deeply enough that they have plenty of water so they can grow vigorously, but not so much water that their roots don’t have to reach out and form healthy root systems, or that you are leaching out nutrients. This is actually a really hard balancing act, and you will have to play around with your systems to see what works best for you and for your potting soil and starting setup.

In general, as they plants grow bigger they are going to need more water (or if you see any visible wilting starting). But if you see plants keeling over and looking like their stem was pinched off (this is damping off, caused by the combination of soil funk and over-watering, and fatal for the plant that gets it), or getting weird and yellow looking, it could be an indicator of over watering, and you should water less, and get some airflow in on the affected plants. If you water from the bottom, one good watering a day should be good. If you water from the top, make sure you are getting the water in deeply by going over the trays a few times each watering.

Finally, we try to water either early in the day, or mid-afternoon at the latest, so that by nightfall, the leaves are dry. Wet leaves are a good breeding ground for plant funk, so try to time your watering to minimize leaf wetness.

Our new germination chamber! It's heated by a crock-pot and mini-heater, runs about 83 degrees, and holds 64 flats at a time!

Our new germination chamber! It's heated by a crock-pot and mini-heater, runs about 83 degrees, and holds 64 flats at a time!

Temperature and Light

Each crop has a preferred temperature range to germinate and grow in. In general, we use higher temperatures to help seeds germinate faster (though some crops like lettuce only germinate at cooler temperatures), and cooler temperatures to grow out those germinated plants in (so they are tough and ready for our harsh field conditions!). You can increase temperatures for your seedlings through germinating them over a heating duct, using little heaters, making germination boxes (we have a fancy one, but you can also use something as simple as a cooler with a light bulb), and commercial heating mats. If you are limited for space and heat, focus it all on crops like your peppers, eggplant, and tomatoes, that really need warm soil to start growing.

On the light front, some things, especially lots of herbs and flowers, need light to germinate, so you will want to read the directions on your seed packs. Most vegetables want to be shallowly covered by soil (to a depth of 1 to 3 times their width, max) and can take or leave the light. However, once the plants start to germinate—like the second they start poking out of the soil—they need to have light, or they will get all long and stretched out and weird. Plants that get “leggy,” where they are reaching out and forming long stems to get to the light, will never really grow as well as stocky, shorter plants.

Ideally, you have a greenhouse with full sun to start seedlings in. But if you don’t, you can replicate one with a super sunny south facing windowsill, or using florescent or other sort of grow lights (sometimes you can find decent lights on Craigslist). If you use fluorescents, they only work correctly when they are suspended within 3 to 6 inches above the plants—any higher, they lead to sad, leggy plants.

One challenge here in CNY, even if you have a fancy greenhouse, is when the Mordor-like gloom descends just as all your baby seeds germinate. We’ve had problems even in the greenhouse with seedlings getting too leggy, especially brassica crops like broccoli, cauliflower, and kale, when they germinate before a spell of cloudy days. So even greenhouse seed starters might want to consider lights or keep an eye on the weather.

If you do have leggy, elongated plant stems, you can try to toughen them up by exposing them to more light and a bit of wind, but with the exception of tomatoes (which can be replanted deep, covering up that long stem), they will never be as good as stockier plants.

One final word of warning—make sure that you don’t cook your seedlings! If you are using plastic, germination domes, or even a greenhouse, and it gets sunny, you need to get out there and uncover your plants fast, or the soil can heat up and fry the seeds/seedlings. We figure we have 5 minutes once the sun comes out to remove all the germination domes before the soil reaches scorching temperatures, so if we are leaving the farm on a cloudy day, we preemptively take off the domes, just in case the sun shows up!

Problems! (This was actually from a lot of bad seed...)

Problems! (This was actually from a lot of bad seed...)

Know your plant pests and diseases and monitor your seedlings

It’s helpful to think about what problems you’ve had in the past on your seedlings, and examine them daily to make sure you aren’t getting any new problems. The things we see most in our greenhouse are fungus gnats, rodent damage, and issues stemming from excessively hard water. The problems I see a lot off the farm include damping off, excessive watering, aphids, and leggy-ness. Most of these are solvable challenges through switching management.

At the first sign of an issue, inspect your seedlings closely:

  • Leggy seedlings show that your light is too far away and you should get more light on the crops (and consider replanting, if there is time as super leggy plants won't be productive).
  • Damping off, when perfectly good looking seedlings keel over, is from over watering and too much moisture. Try to get ventilation on the plants and reassess how you are watering. Damped off plants are dead, so you want to focus your efforts on saving the survivors in the tray.
  • Lots of missing plant tops likely comes from rodents, so you will want to find out where they are coming from and set out some traps. You may need to move your plants as well, since once they know where a food source is, they keep coming back. Germination domes can keep out the wimpier rodents for a short time.
  • Fungus gnats can come in if you are using compost based potting soil, and flourish in damp, wet areas. If you see small black flies buzzing around your plants, it could be them. On their own, they aren’t too bad of a pest, but they can spread disease around the plants. Try to remove sources of moisture and dry out your seed starting area.
  • Aphids can overwinter in greenhouses that have constant plant cover, or come in on purchased plants. They tend to gather in the growing points of seedlings and make the new growth look weird. They can be washed off the plants with vigorous watering, and organically-approved insecticidal soaps can also help deter them. Bought-in ladybugs do eat them, but take some time to impact the population, so they serve as more of a preventative measure than a cure.
  • Too much water is probably the thing I see most on folks’ seedlings, with the signs being damping off, lots of moss growth on the soil, and yellowing foliage, as the soil is so waterlogged it’s starving the plants of nutrients. When you water the seedlings well, the trays should become really heavy. You should try to let them become fairly light (maybe half as heavy) before watering again (though not to the point of making the plants sad or wilty). Get in the habit of feeling the weight of your trays and water based on weight, not on a particular time window. Especially here in cloudy upstate, seedlings might not need water every day.
  • Hard water is the final issue we struggle with, given our super alkaline, limestone-y water. There are some organic additives that can increase the acid in your water, but this shouldn’t be a problem on a home garden scale. One exception is that if you are starting seeds in mid-summer for fall crops, you might see more yellowing and slower growth than in the spring, since the hard water is more of an issue in warmer conditions. We usually try to get our seedlings in the ground faster in the summer, before this becomes a problem.

A final note, if you are buying seedlings, you want to give them a good once over, looking for any foliar issues (are there spots on the leaves? Leaves with yellowing or curling? Odd colors), seeing if there are any bugs or funk visible, and just looking for overall good plant health. The seedlings should be a nice bright green, have thick, sturdy stems, and not be too stretched out. In general, locally grown seedlings available at farmers markets or in local nurseries and greenhouses are a LOT healthier than the bulk of the plants available at some of the big box stores, since most of the local places are professional growers keeping an eye on their seedlings and making sure any with disease or funk are culled out.

Our hardening off area, it's protected and partially shady to gradually toughen up the babies.

Our hardening off area, it's protected and partially shady to gradually toughen up the babies.

Harden those bad boys off

Once you have all these beautiful seedlings ready to be planted, the last stage of getting them ready for planting is called “hardening off.” What it essentially means is toughening up the babies to be able to handle the transition to going outside. Plants grown inside are protected from harsh light, winds, chill, and heat, and pampered with all the water and nutrients they need. If you move a plant straight from your indoor growing area to the ground, being hit with the stress of all those things at one time can shock it so much that it dies.

Hardening off means you gradually start exposing the seedlings to stresses, either through reducing water for a few days, moving outside to the wind and sun in gradually longer increments of time, or reducing temperature. In an ideal world, you’d move the trays outside for a few hours, then back inside, and repeat this over a week, for a longer outside interval each time. In our non-ideal world, we generally harden plants off for a few days this way, while reducing their water. We sometimes cheat on this process and time our transplanting of the crops for grey, cloudy periods, so they aren’t getting stressed by the sun after planting.

Sturdy seedlings can generally handle a few of the stresses of a rapid move outside, but you want to make sure they don’t get hit by all of them at one time. Try to avoid transplanting near a hot, dry, windy spell to lesson the shock on your babies, and make sure that you give your transplants some extra TLC that first week after they are in the ground!

One week old squash in late May, halfway ready to transplant!

One week old squash in late May, halfway ready to transplant!

DON’T JUMP THE GUN!

This time of year, gardeners and farmers alike are itching to get their hands dirty, we totally understand. But one of the WORST things you can do in seed starting is starting those babies too early. Rushing seed starting doesn’t pay off most of the time (unless you are a commercial farmer who really needs to have the first of a crop to market to make the extra premium those veggies entail), because younger, healthy transplants survive and grow so much better than older, root bound ones.

The best way to not start to early is to do a little math on your veggies. For instance, it stresses me out to see everyone starting their tomatoes in February in the northeast when they aren’t going into a greenhouse. If you want to plant tomatoes outside on Memorial Day weekend (a traditional and pretty good start date), count back and see what date is best to start them inside. For instance, we grow our field tomatoes in 48 cell flats, which means in a standard flat, there are 48 plants, which is a pretty standard size for plants you might buy from a greenhouse. I want a healthy, vigorous tomato seedling, that’s ready to burst out in growth, which takes about five weeks of growing in the greenhouse, or maybe six weeks, max, if I want to try and push to get it in the ground a little before Memorial Day. Counting back, that means I should start my outside tomatoes no earlier than April 16th this year. If you are growing them in a bigger pot, like a quart yogurt container, *maybe* you could start them at the beginning of April. But starting a tomato before that can actually set it back and reduce your future harvests, since it will likely get so big and rootbound that it grows poorly.

9 times out of 10, we’ve had so much better growth using smaller transplants than bigger ones. So if you haven’t started your seeds yet, DON'T WORRY, you still have plenty of time! We have only just fired up our greenhouse, and start most of our hardy crops (to transplant out late April/early May) the last week of March. We start our tomatoes for the field mid-April, and longer season tender stuff like eggplants and peppers late in March. Super fast seedlings like cucumbers and squash, we actually only have 2 weeks (or 3 weeks max) in their cells, so we don’t even think about getting them going until May. So don’t worry, you still have plenty of time to plan for and plant your seedlings. Happy growing!